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Dublin Literary Tour: A Book Lover’s Guide to Dublin

Are you a book lover planning a visit to Dublin? This Dublin literary tour will show you all the must-visit places for book lovers in Dublin so you can create your very own Dublin itinerary or literary tour of Dublin.

Whilst lots of visitors flock to Dublin to drink in its Irish pubs (over 100!), it is also a city that is steeped in history and literature.

Numerous famous writers have called this city home over the centuries and Dublin was named a UNESCO city of literature in 2010.

Just a few famous Irish authors associated with this literary city include Bram Stoker, James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift, Samuel Beckett, W.B. Yeats and more.

You could spend an entire weekend exploring literary Dublin and there’s everything from bookshops to literary museums and famous pubs.

On this literary tour of Dublin, you can explore the best Dublin libraries, Dublin literary bars, Dublin bookshops, Dublin literary museums, Dublin cathedrals and more.

Let’s go!

Dublin Libraries

Marsh's Library Dublin

Marsh’s Library 

Marsh’s Library is a hidden gem for literary travellers in Dublin and dates back to the early Enlightenment period.

When it opened in 1707 it was the first public library in Ireland.

Of course, Dublin’s most famous library is the incredibly Trinity College library.

But Marsh’s library is also very special and definitely worth adding to your Dublin literary tour itinerary.

There’s row upon row of beautiful dark wooden bookcases, filled with old books and brown pages. Over 25,000 books in total!

The library still features its original fittings, including the seating and shelving so it’s incredibly well-preserved.

Marsh’s Library also has temporary exhibitions on display with themes from Bram Stoker to China, or Doodles & Marginalia.

For a taste of what’s on offer, you can check out some parts of these exhibitions online on their website.

What’s fun is that they’ve hidden lots of little Lego figurines of infamous historical figures, many of which are Irish.

Address: St Patrick’s Close, Saint Peter’s, Dublin 8, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9:30am – 5pm Wednesday to Friday, 10am – 5pm Saturday
Price: 5 adults, 3 concessions
Website: www.marshlibrary.ie

Trinity College Library Dublin

Trinity College Dublin Library

Trinity College Library in Dublin is one of the most extraordinary libraries in the world.

It dates back to the 16th century and is the largest library in Ireland with over 6 million volumes within these walls.

It’s managed to amass this many volumes due to its status as a legal deposit library.

This means it’s entitled to at least one copy of every publication in Ireland (free of charge). It is also entitled to any book published in the UK upon request.

A large number of famous authors have studied here including Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift, Bram Stoker, Sally Rooney, Anne Enright, Eoin Colfer, Samuel Beckett and more!

Your ticket to Trinity College Dublin library includes entry to this magnificent chamber as well as an exhibition about The Book of Kells.

The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, containing the four Gospels of the New Testament.

The library is one of the top visitor attractions in Dublin and understandably gets very busy, very quickly.

If you’re hoping for it to be empty (or relatively empty) so you can get that perfect Instagram shot then you’ll want to get here early.

You need to book your tickets in advance and you should select the first available slot and head to the library before you visit the exhibition.

It’s worth noting that the library is fairly dark as they keep the blinds drawn to protect the books. You may want to prep your camera settings in advance.

The great thing is that you can spend as much time in either the library or the exhibition as you want so take your time as you wander around!

There are benches in the main library so you can sit down and admire the vaulted ceiling and masses of books before you.

Address: College Green, Dublin 2, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9:30 – 5pm every day (12 – 4:30pm on Sundays in winter)
Price: 16 standard, 13 concessions
Website: www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells

National Library of Ireland

The National Library of Ireland was established in 1877 by the Dublin Science and Art Museum Act.

This meant that the bulk of the collections belonging to the Royal Dublin Society should be vested in the then Department of Science and Art for the benefit of the public and of the Society.

The library then became an autonomous cultural institution on 3 May 2005.

It is now open, free of charge, to all those who wish to consult the collections. However, you may require a reader’s card for some collections.

The library’s Reading Room is a magnificent chamber with a domed ceiling, white columns with beautiful details and turquoise coloured walls.

There are monthly History and Heritage tours which take place at 1pm on the second Saturday of every month and will allow visitors into the Reading Room.

Alternatively, you can visit on Culture Night and Open House Dublin, when the reading room is open to all visitors.

For a taste of the room’s beauty, you can take this virtual 360° Tour of the main Reading Room.

Address: 7-8 Kildare St, Dublin 2, D02 P638, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9:30am – 7:45pm Monday to Wednesday; 9:30-4:45 Thursday, Friday; 9:30-12:45pm Saturday
Website: https://www.nli.ie/

Dublin’s Literary Bars and Restaurants

The Shelbourne Hotel 1824 Bar

The Shelbourne Hotel 1824 Bar 

The Shelbourne Hotel is the most famous hotel in Dublin. It’s a magnificent 5 star hotel in the city centre that has played host to numerous famous literary figures and Hollywood celebrities over the decades.

From William Thackeray, to Seamus Heaney, from The Rolling Stones to Elizabeth Talyor and Charlie Chaplin, this hotel is steeped in stories. It’s mentioned in James Joyce’s Ulysses and Elizabeth Bowen named her book The Shelbourne after it too.

When you enter the hotel you’re met with a grand staircase taking you up into the hotel. If you follow these stairs up you’ll come to The 1824 Bar, one of Dublin’s best kept secrets. It’s a luxurious library bar with dark wood panelling and dark green leather.

Here you can enjoy a selection of their premium cocktails, whiskeys and champagnes. Whilst you’re here, it will seem like you have gone back to times gone by and it seems like the sort of place that Rita Hayworth would pull up a chair.

Address: 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin, Ireland
Website: https://www.theshelbourne.com/

The Winding Stair Dublin

The Winding Stair

The Winding Stair is both a bookshop and a restaurant. The restaurant can be found at the top of a winding staircase and, with views over the River Liffey, it’s a lovely place to stop for a bite to eat after some book browsing.

This artisan Irish restaurant was originally a cafe in the 70s and 80s and drew many writers, musicians and artists. Indeed, many poems, novels and movies were conceived in these walls!

When its closure was announced in 2005, the space was bought and the upstairs turned into an Irish restaurant championing seasonal produce. They serve good old-fashioned home cooking sourced from Irish producers.

From black pudding and pig jowl fritters to leek, potato and smoked salmon terrine or green garlic pancakes, this Irish menu has some hearty dishes to enjoy. There’s an extensive wine list too and the restaurant can recommend a glass for whatever main and dessert you’re ordering.

Address: 40 Ormond Quay Lower, North City, Dublin 1, D01 R9Y5, Ireland
Opening Hours: 12-5pm, 5:30-10:30pm every day
Website: winding-stair.com

The Temple Bar Dublin - Joyce Statue

Temple Bar 

The famous Temple Bar (in the Temple Bar area) is notorious amongst tourists in Dublin and one of the most popular attractions in the city. Its iconic red exterior draws people in as well its selection of over 450 different types of whiskey.

Inside, you’ll find a life-size figure of James Joyce, posed reading at a table. You can sit and join him for a pint if you want!

This place is packed (even during the day) and usually full of tourists rather than Dubliners. This pub’s fame means that the drinks can also be a tad more expensive than other local pubs but this place is so iconic that you’ve got to go once when you’re in Dublin. The atmosphere is buzzing and the music is fun and loud.

Whilst you’re there, take a picture with this statue of James Joyce reading his own work, Dubliners.

Address: 47-48, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, D02 N725, Ireland
Opening Hours: 10:30am-1:30am Monday to Wednesday; 10am-2:30am Thursday to Saturday; 11:30am-1am Sunday
Website: https://www.thetemplebarpub.com/

Davy Byrnes 

Dating back to the 1880s, Davy Byrnes is one of Dublin’s most famous literary pubs. It was frequented by one of Dublin’s most prolific writers, James Joyce, who developed a relationship with its proprietor.

The pub is even mentioned a few times in Joyce’s works including both Dubliners and Ulysses.

“He entered Davy Byrnes. Moral pub. He doesn’t chat. Stands a drink now and then. But in a leap year once in four. Cashed a cheque for me once.

Davy Byrne came forward from the hindbar in tuckstitched shirtsleeves, cleaning his lips with two wipes of his napkin. Herring’s blush. Whose smile upon each feature plays with such and such replete. Too much fat on the parsnips.”

The pub’s original decor takes you back decades and there are three large murals of historic Dublin on the walls. The ceiling is colourful, there are small statues behind the bar and it’s altogether a rather curious mishmash of different styles.

Worth a visit for the food, drink and history.

Address: 21 Duke St, Dublin, D02 K380, Ireland
Opening Hours: 10:30-11:30pm Monday to Saturday; 11am-11pm Sunday
Website: davybyrnes.com

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl 

Pub crawls are a common activity whilst visiting Dublin but how about a literary pub crawl for even more fun?

I booked tickets for the Dublin literary pub crawl on my first night in the Irish capital and it was a lot more fun than I was expecting.

Your two hosts, professional actors, are absolutely brilliant and very knowledgeable. If you know your Irish authors, you may recognise that their attire above is a nod to Beckett’s Waiting for Godot.

Your guides will take you on a tour through the streets of Dublin with regular pit stops at literary pubs with cultural significance.

There’ll be a literary-themed pub quiz too so make sure you’re listening and not just drinking as you go! You can also purchase a handy guidebook to Dublin’s literary pubs, penned by one of the guides himself.

Get tickets for the tour from Tripadvisor here.

Price: £13.95 per adult
Website: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g186605-d546287-Reviews-Dublin_Literary_Pub_Crawl-Dublin_County_Dublin.html

Dublin Bookshops

The Winding Stair Dublin

The Winding Stair 

There are a large number of wonderful independent bookshops in Dublin, but if I had to pick a favourite then it would be The Winding Stair.

This is one of the oldest surviving independent bookshops in Dublin and even the name itself has literary connections.

The name “The Winding Stair” is inspired by the 1933 WB Yeats poem of the same name.

My Soul. I summon to the winding ancient stair

WB Yeats, The Winding Stair

This bookshop stocks new books in a variety of genres and there’s everything from bestsellers and general fiction to current affairs and gardening.

At the back of the shop, you’ll also find a small section of used books and literary gifts.

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What’s great is that there is lots of Irish fiction waiting to be discovered here on their dedicated Irish author shelf.

I spent most of my time perusing this shelf and up buying Actress by Anne Enright and The Hunting Party by Lucy Foley, both Irish authors.

The staff were very friendly and happy to chat and recommend titles too so if you’re unsure what you’re in the mood for, just ask.

This is a beautiful bookshop, inside and out, so it’s definitely worth adding to your Dublin literary tour. In addition to books, you can also purchase literary gifts, including T-shirts, mugs, notebooks.

Address: 40 Ormond Quay Lower, North City, Dublin 1, D01 R9Y5, Ireland
Opening Hours: Monday, Friday: 10am-6pm;Tuesday, Wednesday Thursday, Saturday: 10am-7pm; 12a -6pm Sunday
Website: winding-stair.com/bookshop.html

Chapters Bookstore Dublin

Chapters Bookstore

Chapters Bookstore is Ireland’s largest independent bookstore and, quite frankly, enormous.

As you walk through the store you’ll wonder just when does it end as the bookshelves seem to go on and on. There are only two floors but this Dublin bookstore truly stretches far and wide.

Here you’ll find pretty much every genre under the sun, both fiction and non-fiction. This is the bookshop to go to if you’ve got a particular title in mind.

The trouble is, you might not be able to find it as the store is so vast!

The friendly booksellers should be able to point you in the right direction if you find that to be the case.

The lower floor is where you’ll find the new releases and new copies whilst upstairs is the dedicated second-hand books section.

They stock a particularly large selection of orange Penguin classics as well as beautiful second-hand Folio editions.

What makes Chapters Bookstore even greater is that the prices are really competitive and you could pick up 3 books for €13.

It’ll be hard not to snap up lots of the titles on offer here as they’re guaranteed to have all the books on your wishlist.

In addition to books, they’ve got DVDs, music, cards, gifts and more.

Address: Ivy Exchange, Parnell St, Dublin 1, D01 P8C2, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9am-6:30pm Tuesday to Saturday
Website: http://chapters.ie/

Hodges Figgis Dublin Bookshop

Hodges Figgis 

Hodges Figgis was founded in 1768 and is Ireland’s oldest bookshop. In fact, it’s thought to be the third oldest bookshop in the entire world.

It’s mentioned in books by Irish authors such as Ulysses by James Joyce and the more modern titles Normal People and Conversations with Friends by Sally Rooney.

“She, she, she. What she? The virgin at Hodges Figgis’ window on Monday looking in for one of the alphabet books you were going to write. Keen glance you gave her.” 

Chapter 3, Ulysses by James Joyce

It’s not obvious at all from the deep green exterior but this shop is actually a secret Waterstones. Have you heard about these?

Much like The Rye Bookshop, this bookshop poses as an independent bookshop but was actually bought by Waterstones a few years ago.

Upon entering this becomes clear as it looks much like any other Waterstones.

However, this Dublin bookshop still maintains some of its independent bookshop spirit with its own loyalty programme and dedicated and attentive staff.

Address: 56-58 Dawson St, Dublin 2, D02 XE81, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9am-6pm Monday to Saturday; 11am-6pm Sunday
Website: www.waterstones.com/bookshops/hodges-figgis

Dublin Literary Museums

Writer's Museum Dublin

Writer’s Museum 

Dublin Writer’s Museum is an absolute must for literature lovers in this Irish city. The museum offers a view of Irish literature from a Dublin perspective and the displays are incredibly detailed.

The museum is made up of a large number of display cases, each containing objects related to Irish writers.

In-depth placards accompany each cabinet as well as an audio guide offering more information and sometimes readings from the featured author’s work.

The Writer’s Museum offers a fascinating insight into the writers of Dublin, both the famous and the less well known.

Of course, there’s information on Joyce and Wilde but it is the lesser-known authors that I was most curious to read about, especially the Irish women writers.

Leave yourself around 1-2 hours to wander around all the display cabinets, listen to the audio content and read all the placards on the walls.

If you’re looking for a treat, there’s a Michelin star restaurant next door to the museum with a literary name: Chapter One.

Address: 18 Parnell Square N, Rotunda, Dublin, D01 T3V8, Ireland
Opening Hours: 10am-5pm Monday to Saturday; 11am-5pm Sundays
Price: €7.50 

Museum of Literature Ireland

As if one writer’s museum wasn’t enough, Dublin is also home to the Museum of Literary Ireland.

The museum is dedicated to Ireland’s rich literary history and you can explore immersive literary exhibitions, view items from the National Library of Ireland, or relax in the museum’s gardens and café.

The Museum of Literature Ireland is more of a traditional museum with big displays, exhibits of all different media and more. Highlights include an immersive audiovisual installation and the “Dear Dirty Dublin” exhibit which maps Joyce’s city through sculpture and film.

You can expect large bookish displays, funky use of light, sound, space and more.

This is in contrast to the Writer’s Museum mentioned above is quite an intimate space and focuses more on small objects in display cabinets.

Both are excellent but if you’re not a hardcore literature lover then you may find Museum of Literature Ireland more stimulating. The latter is also more suitable for those travelling with children.

Address: UCD Naughton Joyce Centre, 86 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
Opening Hours: 11.30am–7.30pm, Tuesday to Sunday and bank holiday Mondays. Last entry at 6.30pm
Price:  €10,  €9 concessions
Website: https://moli.ie/

Joyce Centre

If you’re a fan of James Joyce then the James Joyce Cultural Centre in Dublin is a must for your Dublin literary tour.

Joyce is one of the most famous and influential literary figures in Irish history, or indeed the history of world literature generally.

The centre is located inside a gorgeous Georgian townhouse with a beautiful glass archway around the door.

Inside, the exhibits take you through the major historical and biographical information about James Joyce and his influence on literature.

There’s lots to do here from walking tours, lectures, workshops and exhibits. One highlight for fans of Ulysses is the door to the famous No 7 Eccles Street, a recreation of Joyce’s living quarters in Paris.

Check out their website for an exciting programme of Joycean events.

Address: 35 N Great George’s St, Rotunda, Dublin, Ireland
Opening Hours: 10am-5pm every day (opens 12pm on Sundays)
Price: Adults: €5 Senior/Student: €4
Website: jamesjoyce.ie

Dublin Cathedrals

St Patrick's Cathedral Dublin - Swift

St Patrick’s Cathedral

St Patrick’s Cathedral is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. It’s the largest cathedral in Ireland and baptisms have been taking place on the cathedral’s site since 450AD!

The cathedral has a rich history and construction of the current cathedral began in the early 13th century. It stands on top of the site of an ancient well (which was supposed to have been used by Saint Patrick himself.

Book lovers will be interested to hear that Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, was Dean of the cathedral from 1713 to 1745.

You can now visit his grave and epitaph in the cathedral, and, rather unusually, the epitaph was actually written by Swift himself before he died.

Another literary tidbit is that ninety years after Swift died, his body was exhumed and examined by Sir William Wilde, a prominent physician and also Oscar Wilde’s father!

Towards the end of his life, people thought Swift mad, but Wilde discovered that he had a loose bone in his inner ear and he suffered from Ménière’s disease. He was not mad at all.

It is ironic that people thought Swift was mad and he left his money to form a hospital for treating those with mental illness.

Swift was not only a gifted writer but also a staunch fighter against social injustice and he founded a hospital, St Patrick’s Hospital, which is still in use today.

One more fun fact: Legend has it that the expression “chancing your arm” (i.e. to take a risk) originated here at St Patrick’s Cathedral.

Address: St Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8, A96 P599, Ireland
Opening Hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Saturday; Sunday times differ
Price: €8,  €7 concessions
Website: https://www.stpatrickscathedral.ie/

St Michan's Church Dublin Mummies

St Michan’s Church Dublin

St Michan’s Church was built on the site of an early Norse chapel in the early 11th century. Whilst the exterior of the church is rather unimpressive, most tourists visit for the vaults underneath.

Visitors are led from inside the church to the grounds outside and down underneath via a set of very narrow steps. In the vaults, there are a number of mummified remains that supposedly inspired Irish writer Bram Stoker and his famous novel, Dracula.

Since the writer’s mother’s family burial plot is located here, this may be plausible.

There are a few different theories as to how and why these mummies have been so well preserved with some attributing it to the limestone and others the methane gas from the former swampland beneath.

In any case, it’s pretty amazing to be able to see these preserved mummies in the heart of Dublin.

Whilst it would have been inappropriate for the cathedral itself to open these caskets to put the mummies on display, the coffins slowly disintegrated revealing the mummified remains within.

Since the mummies sort of put themselves on display, the church allows them to remain in this way.

Surprisingly, visitors used to be able to shake hands with one of the mummies but this is no longer permitted! Instead, you must take it in turns to peer in at them via the metal gate.

Address: Church Street, Arran Quay, Dublin 7, Ireland
Opening Hours: 10 am – 4:30pm
Price: Church entry: Free. Crypt: € 3.50 ( US$ 4.10) (Students € 3 ( US$ 3.50))

Other Literary Sites in Dublin

Oscar Wilde Statue Dublin

Oscar Wilde Statue and House

If you’re a fan of Oscar Wilde’s work then you should add The Oscar Wilde House in Dublin to your literary Dublin itinerary.

This house on Merrion Square is where Wilde spent his formative years and today you can take a guided tour of it.

This is where Wilde’s mother would host her iconic salons, which no doubt influenced Wilde’s love of writing and literature.

These tours only run from April to September so make sure to check opening times before you visit.

Just opposite the house is a famous Oscar Wilde statue which depicts the famous author lounging on his back on a rock. Here, you can download an app and listen to an extract from Wilde’s writing whilst staring upon his statue/former home.

The reading is narrated by a most pretentious voice which suits the Wilde statute very much!

Address: American College Dublin, 2 Merrion Square, Dublin 2, Dublin
Opening Hours: The House is open throughout the year for group tours, minimum group size 25, advance booking is necessary.
Tel: +353 (0) 1 662 0281
Price: €8
Website: https://oscarwildehouse.com/

Iveagh Gardens

Iveagh Gardens are a lovely place to go for a stroll in Dublin and whilst in here you could easily forget you are in the centre of a vibrant city.

It’s often called Dublin’s “Secret Garden”, which seems apt for a space with old statues, beautiful flower beds and even a waterfall!

As you walk around you might recognise some of the statues and busts dotted around. There’s one for some of the most famous Irish people in history, including literary figures like Joyce, Yeats and Wilde.

See how many you can spot as you enjoy the gardens!

Address: Access is by Clonmel Street, Hatch Street, and to the rear of the National Concert Hall on Earlsfort Terrace.
Price: Free
Website: http://iveaghgardens.ie/

Sweny's Pharmacy - James Joyce - Dublin Literary Tour

Sweny’s Pharmacy

If you’ve read Ulysses you may recognise the name Sweny’s as it is a pharmacy featured in Chapter 5 of James Joyce’s most famous novel.

Today, Sweny’s Pharmacy lives on in real life as a shop of the same name continues to be run by volunteers. All fans of Joyce, of course.

The volunteer manning the shop at the time of my visit was the loveliest man and my visit to Sweny’s was one of my favourite memories of my time in Dublin.

I was having a look around and about to leave when he said: “Oh, are you leaving? I haven’t told you about us yet!”.

He told me about the history of the shop-cum-museum and how it came to be, as well as all the events they’ve got going on today.

They hold regular readings of Joyce here, which is great for both people who find Joyce challenging and Joyce superfans. You can listen to some extracts read by Joyce fans from all over the world on their website too!

On my way out I bought Leopold Bloom’s lemon soap for €5 and it comes in a brown paper bag with “Sweny’s” and their address stamped on it. I still haven’t used it as it’s too precious.

Please note that this shop is cash only (there’s a vintage cash register and all!)

Address: 1 Lincoln Pl, Dublin 2, D02 VP65
Opening Hours: 10am – 5pm Monday to Saturday
Website: http://sweny.ie/

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Laura

Editor of What’s Hot?

Laura is an award-winning travel and book blogger based in the UK. She studied French literature at Oxford University and is now an IP lawyer at a top law firm in London. She was named UK Book Blogger of the Year in 2019 and loves to combine her passion for books and travel with literary travel.